Author: searock

The clutch hasn’t been leaking, a small victory. Both Maladar and Mr. Sensei insisted that I should bleed it again, but I had to remind them about the 30% lesser clutch force compared to original. To be honest, I have no idea how the original clutch feels, so I just need to test the clutch by driving the car 🙂

I got some CVJ grease, which should be just fine for me (pic below). Tricky part is to get the old stuff out of the joints and the new goop in… I already cleaned passenger side inboard joint and it took about two hours.

I’ve had a lot of success with the clutch. So much that I’ve been bleeding it every other day and it’s still not like it should be. I started to suspect that the bleeder plug isn’t totally sealed and called Toyota for new one.

New bleeder plug from Toyota (47547-12010) was 4,70 euros, a stellar price. I went through the local parts shop and found a compatible plug. The plug for Toyota is M10x1x34mm, so M10 x 1mm thread and 34mm length. Length can be bit longer, if 34mm isn’t available.

It took a while to find measures for the bleeder plug, but it was worth it. One plug from parts shop was 1,90 euros. I cleaned the threads and inserted the plug and it felt a lot better than the original. It felt like it was really sealing the clutch line.

Ok, anyhow, I really hate the whole hydraulic system. It’s so difficult to bleed that I could summon the devil with it. Every time I fill the reservoir I hear a disembodied voice reading a Opel repairmanual backwards. I really hope this would be the last time I bled the system.

After I closed the bleeder, the clutch felt solid (once again) and I pumped the clutch, jumped, kicked and touched it softly and after couple of minutes doing this, it still was good. Then I used a broom to push the pedal so I could watch the release cylinder move. Afterwards I left a piece of towel under the car so I can see if it is still leaking.

I also fixed the oil cooler line, it seemed to leak too, but it was easier to fix than the clutch. Just pushed it slightly to get it well over the pipe coming from cooler and tightened the clamp. At least I have a well-oiled e-brake line. 🙂

Such a small part but gives so much trouble

My cousin starts his Harley after winter. Just to compare the loudness between AW11 and Harley (and to test Vimeo, as Youtube sucks)

I got some oil for the gearbox. Ordinary Motul Motylgear 75W90, because Competition Gear 75W140 and Gear 300LS 75W90 were only available on special order. (and the price was 3x)

I went to garage and started to fill the gearbox with oil. My guesstimate for the amount would be somewhere near 4L with ATS LSD, but (as usual) I spilled some and can’t be sure.

Then I installed the intercooler and added some water to the radiator. I tried to bleed the coolant as much as I could and after that I tried to start the engine.

Nothing – oh yeah, the neutral start switch. I took the auto/manual adapter off and temporarily connected the two wires to fool the car to be on N forever.

Then, test number 2. Without exhaust, the sound wasimmense intense. Loud as fuck. I was really excited, almost forgot to burp the coolant 🙂

Then, test number 3:

Then I had to text Maladar.

Here’s the second Toyota I have:

Clutch line isn’t leaking anymore. It took bit longer than I thought, but it’s pretty good now. Now I just need to install everything in the engine bay, buy some gear oil and get the grease for drive axles.

I did the same thing for reverse lights as mentioned in the1985-1986 Mk I Automatic to Manual Transmission Swap article. The terminals were the same as in the wiring picture, but I had different colors for the wires. I went through the wiring diagrams and noticed that this thing worked for 1988 model too.

Reverse lights are working

Same thing as in the article. I didn’t do the other two wires yet (black and white).

My harness didn’t have that third terminal as in the article. I’m not sure what that is.

Picture of my clutch master cylinder repair kit. Wonder if people affected of vertigo see world like this. After taking this picture my phone shut down and I was in such hurry that I couldn’t take a new one. I had to guess the right master cylinder model and ended up with repair kit part number 04311-60080, which seems to fit quite well. Haven’t tried to bleed the clutch yet.

Some brand new Lexus’ something something at the Toyota Tsusho Nordic.

My recent trip to Netherlands.

I’m visiting Toyota Tsusho Nordic

Installed steel braided clutch line. Gear linkage is still bit wonky in this pic.

Constant velocity joint damage

Everything in order, drive axles fixed where they could be fixed and waiting for that axle goop they call grease