This one was making noise. The lower lock nut was loose. The idiot who left it loose was me.
Toyota MR2 AW11
This one was making noise. The lower lock nut was loose. The idiot who left it loose was me.
There is still a little bit to do with the Tein. For the rear, I dont have any kind of camber adjustment, but that can be fixed with SW20 camber adjusting bolts. For the front, I’ve been thinking something similar.
Ive got the measures for the front camber adjustment cam somewhere and based on those, it is possible to use SW20 camber adjustment bolts in front hubs too, but only in the upper bolt hole. Some of the parts need to be done in lathe, but that shouldnt be a problem.
Also, that 2mm shim plate is not as elegant as it could be. I might revisit it later.
2mm thick stainless steel
The body is kinda stiff
Test fitting the spacer. Even without the green paint it seems to disappear into the clevis.
Its there. Bit too shiny, it might show up in the inspection.
Painting the spacers. painted only the visible bits.
Paint has dried, going in.
After painting, the spacer looks like factory made.
From below.
Ok, it seems that I need to address the front strut/knuckle bolts and shim-spacer-whatever again. I had a bit thicker spacer that really was needed and still the upper bolt had moved a bit. This time im pretty sure that the AW11 front knuckle bit that attaches to strut bottom is 26mm thick and SW20 has a 28mm thick bit. I had a 2.2mm thick shim and, well… it needs a redesign 🙂
It seems that I used the brand new Tein sway bar links for the front. The adapter I made for the front knuckle is almost impossible to see. I even bought Tein green paint to keep things looking like they should be 🙂
I could lower the car even further! 🙂
I made a decision to order a SW20 coilover from Tein. A slight risk considering the possibility of not fitting into AW11. Tein UK delivered quickly.
Shiny bits!