Author: searock

Toyota nuts and bolts are expensive.

Ok, I have few problems. Most of them have threads and they’re covered in rust. Some are still usable, only protecting zinc plating is damaged (white rust) while others are beyond any salvage attempt (brown rust).

First of all, Toyota has used JIS standards. Generally, this captain obvious area, but there are some pitfalls. JIS thread is usually same as metric fine thread, no problems there, but the tool size differs:

     JIS    ANSI  DIN
M6   10mm   10mm  10mm
M8   12mm   13mm  13mm
M10  14mm   16mm  17mm
M12  17mm   18mm  19mm
M14  19mm   21mm  22mm
M16  22mm   24mm  24mm

My toolbox is filled with JIS sized tools and I dont feel like using weird 13mm nuts. It would be just wrong.

Also, Toyota has used extensively flange nuts and bolts. In DIN universe, they are called DIN 6921 and DIN 6923. These are the perverse ones requiring weird tool sizes.

JIS names for the flange bolts and nuts are JIS B1189-1987 and B1190-1987. Both of them are hard to come by, but Ive found few netstores who have them. One reason might be the fact that the standard is from 1987. The standard was revised in 2005, but Im unsure what was done and if the newer ones are good to go.

The Toyota grading system is also bit cryptic. It might be just JIS grading, but Im not sure about this either. Im thinking that comparing the torque numbers between DIN grading and whatever Toyota uses would give some info.

Finally, there are also few different plating methods that Toyota has used. Shiny, dull and yellow zinc platings were common. Old yellow zinc bolts and nuts could still be dangerous, because the plating had a carcinogenic part but the bolts and nuts were very durable. Thats what counts, right?

For me, the holy grail is to find modern yellow zinc flange nuts and bolts in JIS sizes and in reasonable price. Of course, for critical areas I would use genuine Toyota ones.

There is one thing though. Im not that brave that I would buy chinese stuff from ebay or somewhere else. I dont fancy having a bolt that is made of cardboard and slightly metallic looking substance that is holding half of my car together.

Car was inspected 16th Nov. Total kilometers is 120529. No problems in the inspection, but rear tie rods are at end. Original parts that only last 27 years. Sad.

With the valve guides oxided, I decided to upgrade them. Bought a set of Supertech GDE-T4AG-SM with VS-T6SM seals. They should be 40.5mm long and have a outer diameter of 11.03mm.

Found out that Toyota has used plenty of different length valve guides in various engines while having the almost same outer diameter of 11mm.

Toyota

11122-16020 int & exh, L 40.5mm ID 6.000mm OD 11.04mm 4AG,1N,3SF,1GG,1UZ,7MG
11122-16010 int & exh, L 40.5mm ID 6.000mm OD 11.04mm 4AG
11122-15030          , L 38.5mm ID 6.026mm OD 11.06mm 4AG,7AF,4EF,8AF,5EF,5AF
11122-74030          , L 38.5mm ID 6.023mm OD 11.04mm 5SF,2JZ,3SF,1JZ,1UZ,4SF
11122-10040          , L 40.5mm ID 6.000mm OD 11.04mm 2E,3E,4EF,5EF
11122-27010 int      , L 42.0mm ID 6.010mm OD 11.05mm 1CDF
11122-30020 int      , L 40.6mm ID 6.010mm OD 11.09mm 1ND,2KDF,1KDF
11122-15020 int      , L        ID         OD         2AU,3AU,4AC,4AL
11126-15020       exh, L        ID         OD         2AU,3AU,3AC,4AC,4AL,1GE

TRD

11121-ae801 int      , L ??.?mm ID ?.???mm OD ??.??mm 4AG
11125-ae801 exh      , L ??.?mm ID ?.???mm OD ??.??mm 4AG

Supertech

GDE-T4AG-SM int & ext, L 40.5mm ID 6.xxxmm OD 11.03mm 4AG