All parts installed carefully. I took extra care to make sure every part fitted their place and was in correct position. Used small amounts of threadlock to secure suspension bits to the body.
Author: searock
Powder coated parts
All parts nicely powdercoated 🙂
Parts before sandblasting and powdercoating.
Depression
It hits like a wet sack of sand and drags you to the bottom
Rear tie rod bearing width
It seems to be 47mm. Should be easy to replace with proper rod end.
Taking measures:
Shocks reference
I’m going to do a reference chart of the height differences between Toda, stock and the third possibility. Measures are bit rough (maybe millimeter here, millimeter there) but the idea is to get ballpark measures for the shocks.
Edit 4.10.2017 sadly this is never getting doneÂ
Quick compare
AW11 Toda rear at the bottom.
Differences between AW11 and SW20 suspensions
| Front end | AW11 (mk1b) | SW20 (early) | notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Top mount nuts | 4x 14mm, 8mm thread (90179-08097) | 4x 14mm, 8mm thread (90179-08097) | same, bolt pattern different |
| Top nut | 21mm, 14mm thread (94182-11400) | 21mm, 14mm thread (94182-11400) | same |
| Bottom bolts | 2x 17mm, 12mm thread (90105-12042) | 2x 19mm, 15mm thread (90105-15001)* | *) late models have 90105-15005 |
| Bottom nuts | 2x 17mm (90179-12025) | 2x 19mm (90179-15001)* | *) late models have different nuts |
| Bottom bracket width | 26mm | ??mm | different between AW11 and SW20. A stack of shims is needed |
| Upper bolt hole | 12mm x 14,5mm | 15mm | Diameter difference |
| Lower bolt hole | 12mm | 15mm | Diameter difference |
| Bolt hole c-to-c | 59mm | 59mm | |
| Trailing arms | 48660-17010 | 48660-17030 | difference? thread and thickness is same. |
| Tie rod end | 45046-29135 | 45047-19075 | length, shape. sw20 points upwards |
| Rear end | AW11 (mk1b) | SW20 | notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Top mount nuts | 3x 12mm, 8mm thread (90179-08122) | 3x 14mm, 10mm thread (90179-10103) | bolt pattern same thread is bigger |
| Top nut | 21mm, 14mm thread (90179-14015) | 21mm, 14mm thread (90179-14015) | same |
| Bottom bolts | 2x 19mm, 15mm thread (90105-15001) | 2x 19mm, 15mm thread (90105-15001)* | same *) late models have 90105-15005 |
| Bottom nuts | 2x 19mm (90179-15001) | 2x 19mm (90179-15001) | same *) late models have different nuts |
| Bottom bracket width | 28mm | ?? | almost same |
| Upper bolt hole | 15mm x 17mm | 15mm | The camber adjustment method is different |
| Lower bolt hole | 15mm | 15mm | should be same |
| Bolt hole c-to-c | 59mm | 59mm | should be same |
| Trailing arms | 48780-17020 | 48780-17030 | difference? |
| Tie rod | very different |
Other stuff:
- Tie rod ends share the same castle nut. Most likely the tie rod ends are nearly identical and SW20 ones should fit AW11. Length might be an issue and the thread to the tie rod as well
- Aftermarket SW20Â rear trailing arms should fit into AW11
- Aftermarket SW20 front trailing arms up to -91 should fit to AW11, after that I’m not sure. At least the front bracket where the far end of the trailing arm attaches should be swapped.
- 90105-15001 (aw11 rear) bolt measures:
- total length 67mm
- without head length 55mm
- head height 12mm
- threaded part 29mm
- M15(?) thread
- 19mm tool needed
- flange diameter ??mm
- nut height ??mm
- 90105-12042 (aw11 front) bolt measures
- total length 64mm
- without head length 53mm
- threaded part 33mm
- M12(?) thread
- 17mm tool needed
- flange diamter ??mm
- nut height ??mm
Things going forward
I’ve pushed things forward and triumphed. Even had the wrong meds which almost pushed me back into deep depression. Felt like hell now the spring has been pretty good for me.
I got all other suspension parts out of the car except struts. All parts have left for sandblasting and powdercoating. They will be sparkly silver 🙂
Got a small 3L ultrasonic cleaner and washed all the bolts and bits. Plenty of discussion between me, Widric and Beldin about getting a new zinc chromate coating for the bolts but overall that could be really expensive. For now the new zinc chromate is out.
Toda is now taken off the car and stock struts are in place, just to keep the hub and brakes and stuff hanging there while powdercoating happens. Ball joints at the end of the control arms were a pain in the ass.
Found out that the front passenger side sway bar bushing was mostly destroyed when the bracket on that side took a big hit. This was way before I got the car.
New bushings are ready. The rear sway bar bushings in the SuperPro kit were for 10mm sway bar and mine had 14mm. I thought this was a difference between JDM and other models, but I havent got any data about this.
Also, I’ve been researching if it would be possible to fit the SW20 Tein Street Flex or Mono Sport coilovers to AW11. Street Flex should be possible but I’ll have to get back to that later.
After weeks of bathing in xylene, I now have 120 clean titanium bolts. Btw, Xylene smells of fun and joy 🙂 I was pretty high after sniffing the stuff while getting rid of the sealant gunk.
Speed demon
Widric found it! There is a speed demon and the voice yelling “faster faster!” from the glove box is real!
Examining the pistons with borescope, looks like a face in the middle of the picture 😀
HKS Speed Limit Defencer
Yay! Now I can put a HKS sticker on my car!
Widric bought a pile of crap some time ago and within the pile there was this little thingy. It is supposed to remove the 180km/h barrier from the japanese cars. As far as I know, this device should get between the gauge cluster and the ecu, hijacking the speed (SPD) signal.
The actual 180km/h barrier isnt that big problem to me, but what the hell, now I can get all the way to the 210km/h what the car is supposed to go 🙂
Serial number 33?? 😀
And this is how it looks from inside. Some logic chips and other junk. Really simple device and I wonder how it is even this complicated.
Easy to install too. Just connect black to negative, red to positive and white and yellow are the in and out for the speed signal.