Lovely, unusual evening. I very much like the colours.
Author: searock
Solid lifters for 4A-G
The solid lifters are a nightmare 😀 I cant seem to get the gaps measured even with the thinnest solid one available. My gap tool thingy gives me unreliable results for some reason.
The thinnest is 5.12mm tall, and Im supposed to get minimum of 0.15mm gap on the intake side and 0.20mm on the exhaust side.
We’ll see. I wouldnt like to admit defeat here, because a lash cap lifter kit from supertech is megaexpensive
New conrod weight
Conrod and bolts, total 408,7 grams. Pretty nice compared to stock 4A-GZE (514.8 grams) weight.
I havent yet weighed the new pistons, but I believe each was around 300 grams.
Alternator
I need a 4age alternator. I have one which i bought used. Decided to crack it open and rebuild it.
After opening I decided otherwise. I’ll buy a reconditioned one. Stator ring had rusted and swollen so much it had nearly zero gap with the rotor. The bearings were rattling and the copper rings that are against those carbon brushes were starting show some wear.
The outer ring is pretty near at its service life, but the inner ring is very nearly to stock diameter.
Bearing model
Non- and critical things missing (part 5)
Critical things missing – copied from earlier post
- Cam followers (1SZ-FE solids. Currently measuring clearances)
- Intake + throttle body
- Plan A – custom intake is being made
- Plan B – Techno Toy Tuning adapter ordered for smallport intake
- Wiring loom (the stock wiring of the maxxecu is very long – not sure if anything serious needs to be done)
- Intercooler (stock one wont do. Must order that A2W (AVT Chargecoolers?))
- Trigger wheel
- Plan A – ordered from Techno Toy Tuning
- Plan B – next door Toyota guy makes one
- Oil filter relocation parts
- IAT sensor + connector
- CLT sensor + connector
- TPS sensor + connector
Non-critical things missing
- New pulleys (ordered from TTT, now waiting)
- CAN Bus wires for the ecu (found something interesting for this)
- New plugs (maybe, I got iridiums both on my current and spare engine)
- Clutch plate (maybe, no idea about the current condition)
- Fuel system (hoses, etc.) ethanol compatible
- Cam gears (maybe later and maybe toda. HKS Camshafts work with stock ones)
- Rear motor mount + damping?
- Shift lever bushing? (what was this?)
- Titanium axle bolts 🙂
- Silicone coolant hose kit
- Engine bay coolant bleeder screw
- Flex fuel sensor
Stuff that needs to be done
- Cleaning block (in progress)
Done list
- Coatings for pistons, turbo and exhaust manifold (Done!)
- Cleaning cylinder head (Done! Found out that Aluminum boat cleaner works well (Oxalic acid))
- Injectors + connectors (Done! EV14 714cc with ethanol compability)
- Ethanol compatible fuel pump (Done! AEM)
- Cam covers (Done! But doing then better this time)
- Crank bearings (Done! Friction reducing coating)
- Conrod bearings (Done! Friction reducing coating)
- Exhaust and downpipe (Done!)
- Head gasket (Done, Cometic)
- New pistons (Done, Matrix Garage/Arias/Traum pistons)
- Gear shifter that small bearing that is at the side of the shifter (Done! Matrix Garage)
- Gear shifter bearings (Done! Matrix Garage)
- Shift base bushings (Done! Matrix Garage)
- 2-component silver paint for the epoxy painted parts (Done, tried new type of 2K paint)
- Fuel pressure regulator (Done, found the missing parts 😀 )
- Crank wheel/harmonic balancer (Done, I found a aluminium one from my stash)
- Rear tie rods (Done, Matrix Garage)
Uncertain
- Idle air valve (uncertain)
- Turbo hardware kit (uncertain)
- Aluminium radiator
- Knock sensor system (plex or that other one…)
Stock piston and conrod weight
Stock 4A-GZE piston and conrod. My scale maxes at 500g so I had to weigh everything separately
Piston and 20mm pin (pin got stuck) – 412.5g
Conrod upper 381g
Conrod lower 119.2g
Nuts 14.6g
Total weight 927.3g
New injectors and fuel pump
AEM Ethanol compatible fuel pump – I used the diagram below from AEM web pages, I hope they dont mind 🙂
…and Bosch EV14 injectors. These are from a flex fuel VW or something. 714cc and ethanol compatible. Connectors in the bag behind.
Fine mist model
Fake valve stem seals
Due some problems with my cylinder head I had to replace valve guides. The new ones came from certain big dealer in Netherlands, Â who is a reseller for Supertech. And with the new guides came the stem seals.
I got the guides installed and machined for my new Supertech valves in a reputable engine shop, but I didnt have a good opportunity to install the seals.
When I finally had some time to install them, the problems started. The seals felt like they wouldnt fit and I really used more force than necessary. Finally, I went over the edge and decided to try to fit them even risking breaking them.
I took a 10mm long socket, put it on the seal and smacked it with a hammer. The seal did not lock on top of the guide, but instead it lodged itself inside the socket.
At this point, I sent a email to Supertech to ask what the fuck was going on. Mr. Tagliavini from supertech was super helpful and I found out that my guides were good but the seals seemed to be too big.
Guides installed:
Assumption is the mother of all fuckups. I thought that the guide diameter was around 11mm which would have been good for the seals that I got. Mr. W asked me to measure the guide end diameter and I found out it was very close to 9mm.
My crude method of measuring:
Then I suddenly realized that the packaging for the seals wasnt correct. The plastic bags didnt have any markings or logos or anything. I sent some measures and pictures to Mr. Tagliavini and he confirmed that the seals were wrong size. In fact, the seals were not supertech at all! The seal OD (12.8mm) didnt match any of their products.
I had to order new seals and this time I got the correct ones. Packaging was ok and when I installed the seals, I felt them to slide and lock properly in place.
Three not-supertechs on the left and one good on the right:
Proper packaging:
oh yeah, that company I got the wrong seals from was Flatlander IPP in netherlands. Shame on them.
Non- and critical things missing (part 4)
Critical things missing – copied from earlier post
- Cam followers (1SZ-FE solids. Currently measuring clearances)
- Intake + throttle body (intake is being made OR adapter for small port intake)
- Wiring loom (nope, nothing done yet)
- Intercooler (stock one wont do. Must order that A2W (AVT Chargecoolers?))
- Trigger wheel (Mr. 4WD Toyota guy from next door is making me one)
- Edit: Oil filter relocation parts
Non-critical things missing
- CAN Bus wires for the ecu (found something interesting for this)
- New plugs (maybe, I got iridiums both on my current and spare engine)
- Clutch plate (maybe, no idea about the current condition)
- Fuel system (hoses, etc.) ethanol compatible
- Cam gears (maybe later and maybe toda. HKS Camshafts work with stock ones)
- Rear motor mount + damping?
- Shift lever bushing? (what was this?)
- Titanium axle bolts 🙂
- Silicone coolant hose kit
- Engine bay coolant bleeder screw
Stuff that needs to be done
- Coatings for pistons, turbo and ext. mani (In progress)
- Cleaning block
Done list
- Cleaning cylinder head (Done! Found out that Aluminum boat cleaner works well (Oxalic acid))
- Injectors + connectors (Done! EV14 714cc with ethanol compability)
- Ethanol compatible fuel pump (Done! AEM)
- Cam covers (Done! Powdercoated)
- Crank bearings (Done! Friction reducing coating)
- Conrod bearings (Done! Friction reducing coating)
- Exhaust and downpipe (Done!)
- Head gasket (Done, Cometic)
- New pistons (Done, Matrix Garage/Arias/Traum pistons)
- Gear shifter that small bearing that is at the side of the shifter (Done! Matrix Garage)
- Gear shifter bearings (Done! Matrix Garage)
- Shift base bushings (Done! Matrix Garage)
- 2-component silver paint for the epoxy painted parts (Done, tried new type of 2K paint)
- Fuel pressure regulator (Done, kinda, it seems to be missing parts 😀 )
- Crank wheel/harmonic balancer (Done, I found a aluminium one from my stash)
- Rear tie rods (Done, Matrix Garage)
Uncertain
- Idle air valve (uncertain)
- Turbo hardware kit (uncertain)
- Aluminium radiator
Dyno run
Dyno run before starting my engine build. Also, a proven result of the stock engine for autorities.