The tide has turned part 1

I reached the turnaround point! Now I’m putting things back together and going towards working engine 🙂

There were problems, though.

New ACL bearings coated in solid molybdenium for extra slippery and first start safety.

Crank test fit. Stock bolts and oil pump.

Rear main seal bracket and the seal itself. Below, the gasket for the bracket.

Seal in place. Left side you can see the 22221 number which indicates the crank line bore sizes.

Glueing the crank girdle to place with Permatex Supra Grey. Main bolts swapped to ARP studs and nuts.

This is where the problems started.

I left the gasket goop to dry for an hour and came back to tighten the main stud nuts. I quickly glanced the ARP installation procedure and thought that it is funny how ARP recommends the tightening torque to be the same as Toyota stock, which is 60Nm. Tightened everything in three steps and then I tried to rotate the crank. It wasnt turning as freely as I hoped.

I checked everything. Removed nuts, removed studs and checked everything possible. Tried tightening again to 60Nm but no dice. There still was a point where the crank felt like it was stuck. Then I read the ARP installation document again and to my horror ARP recommendation wasnt 60Nm, instead it was 60ft/lbs, which is around 80Nm.

The crank seized totally. It only turned a bit when I helped it with the biggest rubber mallet I could find in our garage. Shit shit shit fuuuuuck.

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hi mate, you say your crank seized up when you torqued it down to spec?, it happened to me too when swapped to ARP main studs. the studs diameter is slightly bigger then the oem, so when you tighten the 3rd main cap, the one with the thrust bearings, the cap gets tweaked and jams up the crank, you need to bore out the holes slightly. you can test my theory by torquing down all the other main caps first and see if the crank spins or replace the 3rd cap with the oem bolts. nice write up on the… Read more »