The tide has turned part 2

After the crank got stuck, I disassembled everything:

Bearings looked still good and the molybdenium coating was not affected.

Little bit of measuring – picture below is staged 😀

While having the girdle plate on and everything tightened, the crank bore shrunk to 51,98mm. Didnt expect to see chunks of steel deform so much that the crank line bore would be out of spec (it should be 52mm)

Well, this meant a trip to machinist. Assembled everything back and made sure that the block and girdle were ready for the crank line honing.

Before honing:

…and after honing:

Plenty of cleaning ahead, but the machinist said that the inside diameter  is now 52.03mm.

The crank was also checked for straightness. Weirdly enough, it was 0.03mm out of straight, but now only 0.02mm. For some reason being stored for a year made it little bit more straight 😀

 

The tide has turned part 1

I reached the turnaround point! Now I’m putting things back together and going towards working engine 🙂

There were problems, though.

New ACL bearings coated in solid molybdenium for extra slippery and first start safety.

Crank test fit. Stock bolts and oil pump.

Rear main seal bracket and the seal itself. Below, the gasket for the bracket.

Seal in place. Left side you can see the 22221 number which indicates the crank line bore sizes.

Glueing the crank girdle to place with Permatex Supra Grey. Main bolts swapped to ARP studs and nuts.

This is where the problems started.

I left the gasket goop to dry for an hour and came back to tighten the main stud nuts. I quickly glanced the ARP installation procedure and thought that it is funny how ARP recommends the tightening torque to be the same as Toyota stock, which is 60Nm. Tightened everything in three steps and then I tried to rotate the crank. It wasnt turning as freely as I hoped.

I checked everything. Removed nuts, removed studs and checked everything possible. Tried tightening again to 60Nm but no dice. There still was a point where the crank felt like it was stuck. Then I read the ARP installation document again and to my horror ARP recommendation wasnt 60Nm, instead it was 60ft/lbs, which is around 80Nm.

The crank seized totally. It only turned a bit when I helped it with the biggest rubber mallet I could find in our garage. Shit shit shit fuuuuuck.