Non- and critical things missing (part 2)

Critical things missing – copied from earlier post

  • Cam followers (1SZ-FE solids. Need to measure old ones when I get the head back)
  • Intake + throttle body (intake is being made, prototype seen again!)
  • Injectors + connectors (Bosch EV14 1000cc with ethanol compability)
  • Wiring loom (nope, nothing done yet)
  • Intercooler (stock one wont do. Must order that A2W (AVT Chargecoolers?))
  • Exhaust (Is being made)
  • PISTONS! (maybe something else than wiseco?)
  • Head gasket (HKS?)

Non-critical things missing

  • CAN Bus wires for the ecu (found something interesting for this)
  • New plugs (maybe, I got iridiums both on my current and spare engine)
  • Clutch plate (maybe, no idea about the current condition)
  • 2-component silver paint for the epoxy painted parts
  • Ethanol compatible fuel pump
  • Fuel system (hoses, etc.) ethanol compatible
  • Fuel pressure regulator (I had one but it is at Beldins’)
  • Crank wheel/harmonic balancer (the original will do until I can buy one (BHJ?))
  • Cam gears (maybe later and maybe toda. HKS Camshafts work with stock ones)
  • Gear shifter bearings
  • Gear shifter that small bearing that is at the side of the shifter
  • Rear motor mount + damping?
  • Shift base bushings
  • Shift lever bushing?
  • Titanium axle bolts 🙂
  • Silicone coolant hose kit
  • Engine bay coolant bleeder screw

Done list

  • Cam covers (Done! Powdercoated)
  • Crank bearings (Done! Friction reducing coating)
  • Conrod bearings (Done! Friction reducing coating)

Uncertain

  • Idle air valve (uncertain)
  • Turbo hardware kit (uncertain)
  • Aluminium radiator

Camshafts, bearings and intake

Here are the camshafts. Coatings for more slippery 🙂

Sadly, at the moment they’re the only engine bits I have. Rest of the stuff is at Martelius’

The bearings thing.

I spoke with a friend about conrods in general and also about symmetrical conrods, when I realized what the “always turn the engine to normal rotation direction” means. I’ve thought it had something to do with piston rings but oh boy was I wrong. It’s about bearings.

See the little notch there? The bearings should have a tang that goes into that notch. If the engine is turned “backwards”, the bearings could dislocate and jump off the notch, maybe resulting spun bearings.

Fuck I’m an idiot! I havent ever realized this before 😀

Second peek to the intake! Still much to do.

Testing how wide I can go

Some tactical numbers: Rim is 15″ x 6.5″ with +43 offset. The tire is 195/50.

The metal stick I’m holding is about 10mm diameter. The stick is in the tightest gap.

I’d say I can go maybe 5mm towards the coilover body when selecting offset, rim and wheel and be on the safe side. I’m pretty certain that 8.5″ wide 16″ dia rim with 225/40 R16 tire will be just fine 🙂

(Well, a 9″ wide would probably fit too…)

Subarus are badass

Something from the world of Widric:

Widric sometimes takes the license plates from his other Impreza to drive the non-registered one, like a criminal he is 😀 This time, we went to our local Burger King to have something to eat.

Coming back from the joint turned to exciting, as Widric put pedal to the metal exiting the roundabout next to BK. Road was wet, tires were bad, turbo kicked in and no locks were engaged.

Rear end started to slide. Widric lifted slightly and car snapped out of the slide pointing towards the ditch. We dove in but Widric kept his cool and turned steeringwheel to right direction. I saw a lot of mud and grass thrown around when the tires dug into dirt, just before we jumped back on road. I think the guy in the van behind us must have been impressed 😀

After some nervous laughs, we assessed the situation. I felt some vibration but guessed it was just some mud in wheels and Widric commented looking into mirror that we didnt leave the rear bumper in the ditch.

At the garage we inspected the damage. Mud and patches of grass everywhere. No damage, nothing at all, wheels didnt have anything on them and all body parts were there 😀

Didnt even bother washing the car

Widric later told me that we dug in deep when he drove past the incident point 🙂

 

The piston debacle

Sheesh! Finding proper 4A-G(Z)E pistons is a mess!

The following pistons are listed with 20mm pin and 30.68mm (1.208″) compression height

  • Wiseco K506M815
  • CP/Carrillo SC7653
  • Wössner 9035D050
  • Wössner 9191D050 is strange. It has a 30.6mm compression height. WTF?
  • Wössner 9278D050

…and following pistons have 20mm pin and 30.5mm (1.200″) compression height

  • Supertech P4-T4AG16-20-81.5-CR11
  • Toda 13010-4AG-001
  • Toda 13020-4AG-001
  • Toda 13040-4AG-001
  • Arias AP331669
  • Arias 3721070
  • Arias 3731220

If my current pistons can be shaved a bit, I’ll keep them. I’d love to get the compression height from 30.68mm to 30.5mm and shave a bit off the piston crown to get dome volume somewhere around 2-3cc. This would drop the compression rate little bit below 11:1.

Otherwise I’ll get the Supertech pistons. They’re pretty damn near perfect. 🙂

Difference in compression height numbers probably comes from two pin sizes. Early 4A-GE engines had 18mm pin, later models had 20mm. Some of the companies dont seem to care about this.

I promised myself that I wouldnt get any parts from a country, which still uses imperial units. Meh…

  • Supertech = imperial
  • Toda = metric
  • Arias = imperial
  • Wiseco = imperial
  • CP = imperial
  • Wössner = metric

Wössner would do, they’re from Germany, but why do they have that compression height error too?

Matrix Garage has some pistons too, based on their own design.

Guesstimates about compression ratio 3 + oxidation stuff

Before taking the cylinder head for oxidation removal, I tried (my best) to measure the head volume.

Better get some proper measuring equipment. My trusty 10cc syringe wasnt that accurate, but I got a result that was definetly over 36cc’s. I’m going to use 37cc’s until I get better tools. Next time I’ll use windscreen washer fluid or some cheap alcohol, because surface tension.

My syringe actually stopped at 38cc’s 🙂

Then measured both the deck height and stock 4A-GZE piston compression height. Deck height is 191mm and stock piston compression height 30.5mm.

Valve guides are oxided as well. Or rusted. While getting degreased for the high-tech coatings, some of the alkaline washing liquid leaked inside and made a mess.

Compression calculations:

Seems that the stock pistons are level with the deck when at TDC. Stock 4A-GZE pistons have 30.5mm compression height and Wisecos have 30.68mm. Therefore Wisecos will poke 0.18mm above deck level.

  • Bore: 81.5mm
  • Stroke: 77mm
  • HG thickness: 1mm
  • HG bore: 82mm
  • Deck clearance: -0.18mm
  • Piston volume: 5.9cc
  • Combustion chamber: 37cc

With these values the CR is 12.3:1

  • 1mm headgasket – 12.3:1 CR
  • 1.2mm headgasket – 12:1 CR
  • 1.4mm headgasket – 11.7:1 CR
  • 1.6mm headgasket – 11.4:1 CR
  • 1.8mm headgasket – 11.1:1 CR
  • 2mm headgasket – 10.8:1 CR

Well, the numbers are the same as before… and squish clearance sucks when head gasket is thicker than 1mm.

Wiseco, you suck.

Guesstimates about compression ratio 2

Well, I might have to buy new pistons. I made a mistake when doing calculations about compression ratio.

First of all, I dont know my current deck height. Internet says it is 191mm, but Wiseco uses 192mm. That one millimeter is going to make a huge difference. We’re talking here something above 12:1 compression ratio if the deck height is 191mm.

Also, Wiseco pistons have compression height of 30.68mm and as far as I can tell, stock pistons have 30,5mm. With a small end pin, I set a stock piston next to Wiseco piston to show the slight 0.18mm height difference. Hope the photo is clear enough:

I have to find a good source for either deck height or deck clearance.

Edit: New calculation

  • Bore: 81.5mm
  • Stroke: 77mm
  • HG thickness: 1mm
  • HG bore: 82mm
  • Deck clearance: 0mm
    • (this is a rough guesstimate. Many sites give a 0.38mm deck clearance. Wiseco pistons are 0.18mm taller than stock, which means 0.2mm deck clearance. Also, my block is shaved slightly (guessing 0.2mm) so total will be 0mm)
  • Piston volume: 5.9cc (domed)
  • Combustion chamber: 36cc (not measured yet)

With these values my static compression ratio is 12.3:1, which is slightly high 😀

If I change the head gasket to 2mm thick, CR goes down to 10.8:1. Only problem then is the squish cap, which is way more than optimum.

  • 1mm headgasket – 12.3:1 CR
  • 1.2mm headgasket – 12:1 CR
  • 1.4mm headgasket – 11.7:1 CR
  • 1.6mm headgasket – 11.4:1 CR
  • 1.8mm headgasket – 11.1:1 CR
  • 2mm headgasket – 10.8:1 CR