Tag: 4agze

Toyota 4A-GZE 365cc injectors

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As much information as possible about toyota 4A-GZE 365cc injectors. This post will get some updates later.

  • Low impedance, found a web page claiming 3.4Ω, another one claiming 2.9Ω. Better measure mine.
  • NipponDenso built
  • Connector is surprisingly NipponDenso (Sumitomo) low guide connector.
  • They’re red 🙂
  • 365cc – 3bar, but I dont have the normal 4A-GZE AW11 fuel system pressure available. I’m guessing the pressure might be around 2.5bar and actual maximum somewhere near 300cc, maybe even less.

Nozzle. This type might do twin stream to both intake channels.

Bottom seal diameter is around 16mm. I forgot to measure the height.

Toyota calls this part insulator, injector vibration. Part number 23291-41010

Part number is 23250-16061. There are some differences between injectors, mine seem to be marked white so the complete part number for my injectors is 23250-16061-04.

Older 4A-GZEs had 23250-16060 injectors. I’m unsure how they differ from these.

From bottom seal center to upper seal center (c-to-c) is around 62mm

Side view

Total length is 72,5mm

Connector. Dirty AF.

The rubber thing next to connector and “below” top o ring should be Grommet (For fuel injector)  – part number 90480-13005.

The widest point is 21mm

Nozzle diameter is 10,4mm

Another nozzle picture

Top o-ring diameter is 11,5mm. Toyota calls this one Ring, O (For fuel injector) – part number is 90301-07001.

Thickness is 2mm

The other wide bit at the bottom of the injector, 16mm.

Piston rings + crank girdle

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Checking pistons and rings:

Gap on fourth cylinder is 0.35mm.

Pistons seem to fit into block. That is a good thing.

A package from Manon Racing Products arrived, containing Toda timing belt and oil pump gears, N2 style additional timing belt tensioner (or guide) and a crank girdle.

Timing belt tensioner. Fitment is very good.

And the crank girdle. A serious piece of hardware. I needed only some stiffening but now the engine will be bombproof.

Veeery nice 🙂

Widric’s turbo

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While pondering how we should approach Widric’s turbo installation, we sat down and grilled a bit. 4a block has found its place as shelving. If only the block could be chilled to +4°C, it could keep drinks cool 🙂

The new turbo is a Power Enterprise P1818, if I remember correctly. According to some unknown source, it should spool really quickly.

The turbo has different kind of inlets and outlets compared to stock one (stock one has this weird 90° bend in the turbine inlet, below the blue silicone hose replaces that)

Gott in himmel! Untenseewaffe!

(This kinda reminds me of that Subarute episode on MCM – whole turbine poking through bonnet) 😀

Widric has this rather cool HKS front mount kit, which will need slight modification. Hopefully the turbo works with the front mount.

The tide is turning!

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Seems that I have reached the point where there is nothing to take apart anymore!

One of the pistons (the one that had a ultrasonic bath) taken apart and measured – maybe bit too HDR-ish photo 😀

The new oil pump, this one with 74mm gears. I found some info about how the new dry pump should be primed with grease or assembly lube, but I think that is for later.

Finally, I’ve at least primed the engine block! Got all of the paint stripped, the block cleaned and greaseless and then painted with 2-component epoxy primer (which is actually fine for only coat, but maybe light silver top coat…?)

Cleaned

Important bits taped off

Painted

Moar photos

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Valve covers are off – camshafts look fairly good. MRP turbo manifold testing.

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Testfitting the turbo manifold – reverse angle

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There was a reason behind this pic but I’ve forgotten it

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Half decent gaugepod, painted satin black and in proper place

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Trying to figure out if I have stock camshafts

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That 212 in the casting made me wonder – stock camshafts are 232° if I remember correctly, but then again, it could be 272 (TRD camshafts). Measuring the cam lobe finally told me that I was dealing with stock shafts. Woo-hoo.

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Some engine bits in ultrasonic cleaning solution

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One of the pistons looking good after washing it

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Engine block going into machine shop

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My turbo manifold and Beldins RS2871R GT2876R

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Number one main bearing

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Widric pondering if Beldins turbo would fit his Impreza

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(re)Building the spare engine

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Ok, long story short. I went and got my spare engine out from the shed where it had been for more than two years. Took it apart and inspected everything and there was nothing serious. Block is currently getting machined to 81.5mm oversize and just got the crank back – polished and inspected (photo taken when i took the crank to the shop).

Still missing lot of parts. I’ve ordered a genuine toyota 15100-19036 oil pump, the one that I had wasnt suitable for Toda gears. Bearings needed, conrods, pistons, whatnot and a turbine 🙂

P.S. the bolt pattern upgrade isnt done yet 🙂

Removal of the oil filter relocation stuff

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I built this oil filter relocation kit some time ago. For my first adventure with such things, it performed really well. There were some leaks, but relocation, pressure sensor and temperature sensor were a success.

engine_bay_sensors3

Only thing that annoyed me was the resonance. I attached the oil filter bit next to the fuel filler hose, which got the whole fuel system resonating.

For the replacement, I just got this generic chinese made sandwich plate and decided to get rid of the whole relocation stuff.

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The braided hose for the pressure sensor was perfect and i was able to mount it on top of the engine. The sensor is on the heavy side and I felt it could break free (and crack the aluminium) if left attached just to the sandwich plate. I did some heat shielding with 3M aluminium heat shield tape.

Edit: I forgot to mention, the temp sensor wiring and pressure sensor hose went between the exhaust manifold and block, otherwise i wouldn’t made the heat shielding

engine_bay_sensors

I had to lenghten the wires for the electric parts, which I did properly. I found very nearly the same wire with same colors and did a top notch job. The wires were soldered with supports to eliminate possible cracking in shaky enviroment.