Ghost XI

This time the gearbox only took about 2.5 hours to remove. It actually helps a lot when you know what you’re doing 🙂

I can’t remember why I have a picture of Maladar’s cat in my cellphone, but here is Baron:

I was wondering if the loose exhaust heatshields would give out this horrible resonance/rattling noise. I took off all loose parts and tightened everything else. Should be ok 🙂

We got the gearbox out really quickly, which meant that we had time to wonder what could be behind this. We opened the 5th gear cover, just to check if the shafts were doing anything abnormal, but nope, everything was just fine.

My friend had a housewarming party for the evening, so I had to leave. Maladar accidentally destroyed the water temp sensor for the ECU, but I said that I have a replacement on my spare engine. Maladar then checked the sensor, but it had a different terminal (if I’m correct, the terminal was changed somewhere near 88/7, and my current engine is 88/9 and the spare is 88/3 or 88/4.

Maladar compares the terminals:

Copied directly from Toyodiy:

89422	SENSOR, WATER TEMPERATURE (FOR E.F.I.)
89422‑20010	(08/1988 – 11/1989)
89422‑30020	(06/1984 – 07/1988)

So the original one on my car is 89422-20010 and the one Maladar has in his hand in the above picture is -30020

Maladar compares the destroyed one with the spare one. Above, the engine has -30020 water temp sensor and Maladar has the destroyed 89422-20010 in his hand. I was really tired when I wrote this and couldn’t notice the engine stand 🙂

Maladar took a picture for me, so I could find a replacement:

When I was leaving, Maladar told me that he has some time to tinker with my car. I said that I’m happy if I have the gearbox back in the car when I get back.

Maladar sent me a picture of his progress:

Totally surprised me that he had put everything back together. He left some small bits for me, but thats ok 🙂

Some pictures are of course courtesy of Maladar. Thank you! 🙂

One boring video again:

Gearbox swap is finally done. Some details are still missing but the car is driveable. Clutch feels nice and gearbox works perfectly (as long as you drive forward, reverse isn’t engaging every time) 🙂

Short update for now, I’m really tired.

Thank you Widric and Maladar.

Also, Aphexic from NZ 🙂

Thank you – well, Maladar took the picture below, I’m behind the wheel.

I finally found the spot where the clutch line was leaking. It was in the middle of  the braided line, which must have bent and cracked at some point. This revelation took away my motivation to do anything at all.

This morning the motivation came back. I think it was under the dishes or something… I started to wonder if I could do the clutch line using shorter copper-nickel pipes and some adapters.

I already had a short steel braided line for the original Toyota manufactured clutch line, but hadn’t use it because I decided to build a custom full length steel braided line.

Adapters I found from my local hardware store, readily available. This time I bought adapters for the 4,75mm CuNi tube, because the 6mm tube was sold out. This turned out to be a winning choice.

I bought five M12x1 to M12x1 adapters, a bunch of M12x1x5mm and some M10x1x5mm fittings just to be sure and 5m of tubing.

I had drawn a worst case scenario plan for the line, which split the clutch line into seven segments. I already had two of the segments made, so there was need to do at least five more. Some planning with the segment lengths and the adapters were in more accessible locations and therefore easier to tighten. Another small thing I had forgotten last time. 🙂

Finally, I only needed three segments. The 4,75mm tube actually worked really well with my tube tools and I made all the tube ends in just minutes, compared to the 6mm tube which never worked well with my shitty tools.

One thing which managed to slow down the progress was a small bit of something in one of the adapters. I think I forgot to clean them properly before I installation and I had to tear down a part of the line and splash the brake fluid everywhere.

For the first time, the bleeding went really quickly. One reason of course was the smaller diameter tubing and another reason was the leaking (which didn’t occur this time) 🙂 Maladar was really tired but helped me with the bleeding as much as he could. I tightened the bleeder and asked Maladar to press the pedal while I was under the car so I could watch the release cylinder. The cylinder moved about 2cm when Maladar pressed the pedal. According to Maladar the pedal felt like it should be.

At this point, Maladar felt that he should already be sleeping and left. I attached the battery and checked that everything was ok and started. I used e-brake to create some resistance and tested that the clutch was working perfectly. Then I celebrated with picking trashes and washing a part of the floor 🙂

I’ll try to draw some schematics about the clutch line, both worst case scenario and how it turned out. I don’t think there is any use for the schematics in real world, but just for fun 🙂

Axles in progress (nearly completed)

And finally, where they should be:

There was one funny thing with the shafts/axles which I forgot to tell. For some reason I looked the 4A-GE axle lengths for the whole time which were bit different and I accidentally cleaned the short A/T axle as well :\>\> no biggie, but what Maladar said made me think: “it isn’t that easy to change your habits to more systematic, we should have been more systematic and use marker pen to mark the ones coming from M/T”. I think the usual “measure twice, cut once” applies here as well. We’ve been using the “measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk and cut with axe” -method…

Mr. Sensei visited our garage for some vinyl graphics. Maladar and Mr. Sensei put the graphics together for the whole evening (and some part of the night), but the result looked awesome.

I didn’t contribute much to the project, so I took some pictures and video clips