Toyota E51 gearbox info – bearings

Ok, in this post I will list some gearbox bearings and some info about them

These bearings are for the both ends of the diff. All of them are for 4A-GZE + E51 combo, but some were used in SW20 gearboxes.

Edit 1: Fixing some mistakes + noticed that all of these arent from 4A-GZE + E51

Edit 2: Of course, my info is not to be trusted. Always doublecheck.

Edit 3: (18th Sep 2018) I don’t sell bearings. The list here is to make connection between different manufacturers and Toyota part numbers.

Differential bearings:

  • 90368-44002
    • Used in 3SGE automatic
    • LH bearing
  • 90366-44001
    • Used in 3SGE automatic
    • RH bearing
    • NACHI 44KB721
    • Used between 86-89
    • ID 44mm, OD 72mm, WD 22mm
  • 90368-40016
    • Used in 4AGZE
    • LH bearing 4AGZE
    • Discontinued
  • 90368-40003
    • Used in 4AGZE
    • RH bearing 4AGZE
    • Discontinued
  • 90366-40064
    • Used in SW20 3SGE, probably S54 gearbox
    • NACHI 40KB681A1
    • ID 40mm, OD 68mm, WD 22mm
  • 90366-40023
    • Used in SW20 3SGE, 3SFE and 5SFE, probably S54 gearbox
    • RH bearing
  • 90366-40016
    • Used in SW20 3SGE, probably S54 gearbox
    • KOYO TRA080702
    • ID 40mm, OD 68mm, WD 22mm
  • 90366-50014
    • Used in 4AGZE and 3SGTE
    • LH bearing 4AGZE
    • KOYO TR100902D-2-N
    • ID 50mm, OD 90mm, WD 21mm
  • 90366-57006
    • Used in 4AGZE
    • RH bearing 4AGZE 86.8 – 87.2
  • 90366-57016
    • Used in 4AGZE
    • RH bearing 4AGZE 87.3 – 89.11
  • 90368-40002
    • Used in  SW20 3SGE, probably S54 gearbox
    • KOYO 57390AN
    • ID 40mm, OD 68mm, WD 22mm
  • 90366-57001
    • Used in 3SGTE, maybe in 4AGZE too.
    • RH bearing
    • KOYO ST5791
    • ID 57mm, OD 91mm, WD 20mm
    • NACHI 57KC911
    • ID 57mm, OD 91mm, WD ??mm
    • PFI PST5791
    • ID 57mm, OD 91mm, WD 20mm

Output shaft front bearing:

  • 90365-33003
    • Used between 86.8-89.11
    • Used in both 4AGZE and 4AGE
    • KOYO KNU070618
    • KOYO RNU070618
    • (Difference?)
  • 90366-32002
    • Used between 86.8-89.11
    • Used in 4AGZE
    • NACHI 32KB742

Output shaft rear bearing:

  • 90366-28002
    • Used between 86.8-89.11
    • Used in 4AGZE
    • NACHI 28KC692
    • ID 28mm, OD 69mm, WD 21.3mm
    • PFI P28KC692
  • 90366-28007
    • Used between 86.8-89.11
    • Used in 3SGTE, but is also listed for 4AGZE. Size difference, possible error?
    • NACHI 28KC695
    • ID 28mm, OD 69mm, WD 25mm

Input shaft front bearing:

  • 90365-25021
    • Used between 84.6-89.11
    • Used in 4AGE + C5x
    • KOYO RNU050415A
    • ID 25mm, OD 43.5mm, WD 15mm
  • 90365-30023
    • Used between 86.8-89.11
    • Used in 4AGZE and 3SGTE
    • NACHI 30RJ5852
    • ID 38mm, OD 58mm, WD 20mm

Input shaft rear bearing:

  • 90363-25027
    • Used between 84.6-89.11
    • Used in 4AGE?
    • KOYO DG2568-HNSH2-C3
    • ID 25mm, OD 68mm, WD 19mm
  • 90363-33005
    • Used between 86.8-89.11
    • Used in 4AGZE
    • NSK 33TM01NXC3
    • SKF 6307VSP33
    • PFI P33TM01NXC3
    • ID 33mm, OD 80mm, WD 19mm
  • 90363-33007
    • Used in 3SGTE, might work in 4AGZE (upgrade?)
    • NSK 33TM01U40AX
    • ID 33mm, OD 80mm, WD 19mm

Non- and critical things missing (part 3)

Critical things missing – copied from earlier post

  • Cam followers (1SZ-FE solids.)
  • Intake + throttle body (intake is being made)
  • Injectors + connectors (maybe  EV14 1000cc with ethanol compability)
  • Wiring loom (nope, nothing done yet)
  • Intercooler (stock one wont do. Must order that A2W (AVT Chargecoolers?))
  • Trigger wheel (Mr. 4WD Toyota guy from next door is making me one)
  • Edit: Oil filter relocation parts

Non-critical things missing

  • CAN Bus wires for the ecu (found something interesting for this)
  • New plugs (maybe, I got iridiums both on my current and spare engine)
  • Clutch plate (maybe, no idea about the current condition)
  • Ethanol compatible fuel pump
  • Fuel system (hoses, etc.) ethanol compatible
  • Cam gears (maybe later and maybe toda. HKS Camshafts work with stock ones)
  • Rear motor mount + damping?
  • Shift lever bushing? (what was this?)
  • Titanium axle bolts 🙂
  • Silicone coolant hose kit
  • Engine bay coolant bleeder screw

Stuff that needs to be done

  • Coatings for pistons, turbo and ext. mani
  • Cleaning cylinder head
  • Cleaning block

Done list

  • Cam covers (Done! Powdercoated)
  • Crank bearings (Done! Friction reducing coating)
  • Conrod bearings (Done! Friction reducing coating)
  • Exhaust and downpipe (Done!)
  • Head gasket (Done, Cometic)
  • New pistons (Done, Matrix Garage/Arias/Traum pistons)
  • Gear shifter that small bearing that is at the side of the shifter (Done! Matrix Garage)
  • Gear shifter bearings (Done! Matrix Garage)
  • Shift base bushings (Done! Matrix Garage)
  • 2-component silver paint for the epoxy painted parts (Done, tried new type of 2K paint)
  • Fuel pressure regulator (Done, kinda, it seems to be missing parts 😀 )
  • Crank wheel/harmonic balancer (Done, I found a aluminium one from my stash)
  • Rear tie rods (Done, Matrix Garage)


  • Idle air valve (uncertain)
  • Turbo hardware kit (uncertain)
  • Aluminium radiator

Other Matrix Garage stuff and the exhaust

Some parts from Matrix garage. Gearbox cable end bearings top left, shifter base stuff and the side bearing for the shifter. Also, two rear tie rods, they look awesome.

With this sceptre I shall rule my garage!

The exhaust tip. I was informed that the tip was 100mm dia, but I think it is more likely 90mm. No biggie. Its still huge 😀

This is how it looks. Bendy bit, catalytic converter, silencer and the tip. Ballsy noise expected.

New pistons from Matrix Garage

As the title says 🙂 Also, I got two Cometic MLS headgasket to choose from.

The box assistant was with me at the unboxing. Weirdly enough, her food comes in a box that is similar in size to this box. Wonder if she was actually looking for food? I know she has good memory.

One of the pistons. Designed by Yoshi at Matrix Garage, manufactured by Traum Pistons. These are MG’s shelf pistons, 81.5 oversize and with stock 1.2mm headgasket CR should be 10.5:1.

I’m going to use a 0.76mm headgasket. CR should be somewhere around 10.9:1 with that.

Some deburring is still needed. I’m going to get the same coatings on these pistons what I got for the previous ones.

Some exhaust work and wintery road trip

Long story short: I had to get the car to the exhaust shop and back, about a 500km roundtrip in total.

initially, I was thinking a trailer to move the car, just because the weather wasnt that awesome. Friend of mine got me the trailer, but I couldnt find anything to pull it with.

Enter plan B:

Found some old corolla studded winter tires and tried them on. I thought this was the lowest point, never ever have had winter tires on this one  😀

These were in bad condition, but I had to test them. Found the better ones bit later for the trip.

On that evening, everything around our garage was frozen solid and I had sooooo much fun doing powerslides and just going around corners. The tires had insane amounts of grip, even on solid ice.

The day after that I drove to the exhaust shop. Left the car there.

The shop owner sent me photos while he was building the exhaust. I was speechless at this point.

Went to get the car later that week and got the cylinder head, engine block and some fiddlybits back. After the washing incident, my cylinder head had been fixed, new valve guides installed and everything put into order. Old valve guides were bit brownish at the other end.

The custom made exhaust: 3″ downpipe that squeezes to 2.5″, magnaflow catalytic converter and a tuned muffler. The tip is polished 100mm.

This is pretty close to the TBS exhaust system, quite a coincidence.

On my way back I couldnt understand why my headlights didnt show further than 10m in front of the car. After driving the last 50km with high beams on, I realized there must be a ton of muck caked on the headlights. They were pretty much opaque 😀

Painting valve covers – part 1

The unpainted lettering has bugged me a while now. The covers look like new, but this detail is something I’ve wanted to do a while now.

Masking looked  pretty much impossible to do with a masking tape, so I decided to try that old painters trick to use grease to mask the areas where I didnt want paint.

First test didnt go that well. The grease and the primer combined together started to melt the powdercoat. I managed to fix the surface without any permanent damage.

I’ve bought different kind of primer, some cool paint and now I just need bit different kind of grease.