Ghost XI

Some progress with the MR2 🙂 I got parts for the gearbox linkage and I installed most of them, just to test how the stick shifter works and feels. There is some looseness with the shifter base, but I think that will be easily fixed.

Starter motor was easy to install, just two bolts (39 Nm of torque) and that was it. 🙂

After starter motor I installed everything that was missing from the clutch, mostly lines around release cylinder and some other stuff.

I also reworked some parts of the clutch hose and rerouted it. I found out that my original route was not that good if you wanted to do something to it later. The hose is now attached to the original clutch line brackets and is covered with clear vinyl tubing at some corners. (pictures later)

When everything looked good, I was ready to bleed the clutch. Some small leaks, but tightening fixed ’em.

Bleeding was quite easy, but afterwards I found out that while I pressed the pedal it didn’t do anything. Release cylinder just sat there and didn’t move at all. I think it must be the master cylinder, so I need the rebuild pack for it.

I’m still missing (I have no idea where it went) one of the big bolts which attaches the gearbox to the block. A/T and manual have different bolts and the biggest one for the M/T is not available anymore. Part number is 90119-12109 and measures for the bolt are as follows: 12-1.25P x 102-30

Maladar is still sick. Get well soon!

I’ve been sick for at least week, beginning from the gearbox swap. Maladar has been sick even longer, but he tells me every time how vodka helps! 😀

Well, at least there is some progress, I ordered parts to attach the shifter cables and some rubber grommets. If I’m feeling good enough, I’ll go and get the parts from Toyota Tsusho Nordic.

We noticed that the longer drive axle for manual had some damage on in (repairable, but probably an awful job). We measured the A/T drive axle and it was nearly the same length and we decided to use it so we wouldn’t need to fix the correct one. I later checked the lenght difference from the repair shop manual and the A/T drive axle should be about 1cm longer than the manual drive axle.

I’m not sure if that really counts, but we’ll see. The length difference might come from the stubs connecting to gearbox, but I’m not sure.

Edit: Just checked the part numbers, and the part number for longer drive axle excluding the stub is different between M/T and A/T

Do I need to say more? All the mounts are attached and it looks fine! I’ll upload some pictures later 🙂

I bought some Copper-Nickel tube to bend the pipes myself for the clutch. Toyota dealers were not helping this time, the original pipes were not available anymore. I also found the correct pipe fittings for the M12x1 thread and some other parts.

I was mentally prepared for the hardest part, the pipe going under the car. It turned out to be extremely difficult.

Everything went well to the point when I noticed that I had bent the pipe too much and it had collapsed. I got really pissed and left the garage to think the whole thing over again. Next day I got a call from a friend asking about computers, but some reason we soon spoke about the cars. He then wondered why I didn’t get a steel braided line for the clutch and I had to tell him that my local hydraulics shop couldn’t make me a hose with M12x1 ends. He couldnt’t believe me, so I said that I’ll call the hydraulics shop again.

The answer was still “no”. Not possible for M12x1. Rare thread.

Then, suddenly, I found a adapter to change the M12x1 to M10x1, and voil